Moscow virtual walk, Zamoskvorechye

=Beginning of Moscow Virtual Tour Main Index of Uncle Pasha's Files

ZAMOSKVORECHYE WALK WITH UNCLE PASHA ON A WET MID-FEBRUARY DAY IN 2002

A stetch showing where we've been today

The graphics may be lousy because of the rain, but the sense this set of pictures conveys is very real. We are starting this walk on the Moskvoretsky bridge between the Red Square and Balchug.

Looking west, in zoom mode, from the Moskvoretsky bridge. The dreary pile of The House on the Embankment - enough history took place here for the building to have its own museum that you can see at http://www.museumdom.narod.ru/ - is now topped with the Mercedes symbol. The dome of the newly-constructed Christ-the-Saviour Cathedral is on the other side of the Moskva.

Looking north we see the Spasskaya tower fo teh Kremlin, St. Basil's Cathedral in the center, and the GUM departmetn store on the right. St. Basil was awarded the status of a saint for his successes and achievements at being a God's fool. [insert something sympanthetic on the denial of world's wisdom as an act of religious devotion, even at the risk that potential paying clients may get scared off..]

Now we are looking south-west from the same Moskvoretsky bridge. The late 19th century building houses the Culturology Institute (check!). The crane towers over Czar's Gardens, a nearly complete luxury office and shopping complex.

Still on the same bridge, still making a circle with the camera..

The mass of the Rossiya hotel. Probably the cheapest place to stay in the very center of Moscow.
[Link to the story of barbarism and UNESCO's protest]

Looking south-east we see the old heat and power plant on Raushskaya Embankment. The plant is a landmark, with its own museum.

Looking south-south-east at the Balchug hotel, the site of Moscow's first drinking establishment build shortly after the victory over Kazan by Ivan-the-Terrible. Balchug means swamp, and it is the lowest point in the city. Balchug is the most expensive hotel but is probably worth it judging from its buffet-type breakfast I tried several years ago, when my attitude problem was under control and corporate clients still used my humble services and fed me Balchug breakfasts..

Rain is getting heavier. Most of the pictures you see here are rather gloomy not only because such weather predominates in by motherland, but also because I tend to be most active at 5-10 centigrade accompanied by a drizzle.

This one registers Moscow's grayness and low sky just about perfect. Looking East from the bridge.

Also looking east, with camera turned a bit to the right (south)

Now we've crossed the bridge, and then another little one over the canal, and turned left, and walked a hundred feet along the Kadashevskaya Nab. and found ourselves at the intersection of Pyatnitskaya ul. and Ovchinnikovskaya Embankment.

Beginning of Pyatnitskaya street. Actually, we are now looking South towards the Balchug street (and a hotel named Balchug-Kempinski), and Pyatnitskaya is behind us. Presently Pyatnitskaya is the most vibrant of Zamoskvorechye streets even though maps still tend to show it as a backlane.

The Smirnov House on the corner south-east corner of Pyatnitskaya and Ovchinnikovskaya embankment. Presently it is closed "due to technical difficulties" according to the sign on the door. The nature of these difficulties is that the heirs to the Smirnov/Smirnoff trademark are waging a war among themselves. Speaking of vodka, don't forget to check out my Heavy Drinking in Russia page which you should be able to find if you go back to my index of walks and drives..

Looking down Pyatnitskaya. I am leaving this photo as a gentle introduction to crowds of leather-clad stone-faced men and dough-faced women you need to be prepared to encounter.

Proceeding along east along the canal's embankment we get to one of the most esteemed, in the right circles, we get the The Oracle of the Divine Bottle, a highly esteemed yet democratic jazz clubs. Address: Bolshoi Ovchinnikovsky Pereulok.

Behind the club you'll find a rare example of 16-17th century upper class dwelling.

Walking past the Oracle of the Divine Bottle and the old building through a narrow pedestrian passage we see a small football field. In the Soviet days every neighbourhood had one, then they got neglected for several years, and now this tradition is being restored.

Back onto Pyatnitskaya, at Klementovsky pereulok, making our way to the Tretyakov Gallery

Pyatnitskaya and Klementovsky, facing east. We cannot see it from here but still the Pirogi Restaurant and Bookstore needs to be mentioned. The bookstore and bar is open till six in the morning. If not smoke-saturated atmosphere, a crowd of young wannabe intellectuals, and cognitive dissonance caused by the grumpy guard by the door I'd be a regular.
Klementovsky, that runs between Pyatnitskaya and Bolshaya Ordynka, is the snacking center of the neighbourhood. One thing I love about Russia and Moscow in particular is that you can grab something to eat and even to drink literaly on the go. It is Sunday and the "Wonder-Mill" that bakes excellent and very inexpensive little pirogies is closed.
But the Chinese food hut next to it is open, and offers, among other things, fried tofu with vegetables, rice, noodles and other common Chinese things which are perceived, at least by a vegetarian doomed to spend the rest of his days in Moscow, such as may be my case, as a saving Grace..

Fried to-fu, mushrooms, and vegetables, 35 roubles ($1-something)

Monk's Dinner, a delicious mix of exotic vegetables.

Beer is sold right there too. You can consume your snack on a fairly dirty table right by the hut but given the cost you can't be too demanding.

Yadrena Matrena can be recommended if you want to have a full sit-down meal.

Another "proper" eating establishment with affordable prices. I think two can eat there easily for $20.

Yelki-Palki ("fir trees and sticks") is decorated in Russian country style. These days you will not easily find a wicker fence even in the countryside. Speaking of fences, do check a separte page dedicated the place of barriers in Russian life and psyche.

A seemingly abandoned cathedral that I can't quite place in time towers over the Klementovsky snack alley

Here I tried to capture this row of food kiosks.

This is a pedestrian street save for police cars. I get lots of questions about safety. Relax: streets are well patrolled and on several occasions I found the hard way how attentive and dilligent Moscow patrol men are. The funniest episode was being stopped and questioned when chasing Olesya who ran off with my beer..

Meat pie stand. If lucky, you can get a mashroom pie. Buy them in the beginning of the day, when oil is still fresh. Watch for low awnings!

Fashion for bright clothing seems to be taking foot in Moscow

But most Moscovites and practically all other Russians prefer wearing this tired grumpy look in public.

Kroshka-Kartoshka ("baby potatoe") stand where you can get stuffed baked potatoes is the last one on the right. It is one of the most professionally run kiosk chains.

A classic: babushka selling her "dacha" produce. Usually great quality, and 100% of your money goes to the producer. Highly recommended.

Street dogs seem to feel at home in Moscow streets. Usually they attach themselves to a specific residential building, and tenants establish a system of feeding them.

By the end of my walk the rain stopped in mid-air. Then the mist showed a trend towards clearing. So I retreated to my hideout to process the catch.. If planning your trip please remember that usually it is much colder here in February, and very windy.

A sketch showing where we've been today

What seems to be another version of the same walk

Beginning of Moscow Virtual Tour Main Index of Uncle Pasha's Files

Posted Feb. 10, 2002 - Last update Feb. 14, 2002

The mass of the Rossiya hotel. Probably the cheapest place to stay in the very center of Moscow. [Link to the story of barbarism and UNESCO's protest]	Looking south-east we see the old heat and power plant on Raushskaya Embankment. The plant is a landmark, with its own museum.	Looking south-south-east at the Balchug hotel, the site of Moscow's first drinking establishment build shortly after the victory over Kazan by Ivan-the-Terrible. Balchug means swamp, and it is the lowest point in the city. Balchug is the most expensive hotel but is probably worth it judging from its buffet-type breakfast I tried several years ago, when my attitude problem was under control and corporate clients still used my humble services and fed me Balchug breakfasts..
Rain is getting heavier. Most of the pictures you see here are rather gloomy not only because such weather predominates in by motherland, but also because I tend to be most active at 5-10 centigrade accompanied by a drizzle.	This one registers Moscow's grayness and low sky just about perfect. Looking East from the bridge.	Also looking east, with camera turned a bit to the right (south)

Pyatnitskaya and Klementovsky, facing east. We cannot see it from here but still the Pirogi Restaurant and Bookstore needs to be mentioned. The bookstore and bar is open till six in the morning. If not smoke-saturated atmosphere, a crowd of young wannabe intellectuals, and cognitive dissonance caused by the grumpy guard by the door I'd be a regular.	Klementovsky, that runs between Pyatnitskaya and Bolshaya Ordynka, is the snacking center of the neighbourhood. One thing I love about Russia and Moscow in particular is that you can grab something to eat and even to drink literaly on the go. It is Sunday and the "Wonder-Mill" that bakes excellent and very inexpensive little pirogies is closed.	But the Chinese food hut next to it is open, and offers, among other things, fried tofu with vegetables, rice, noodles and other common Chinese things which are perceived, at least by a vegetarian doomed to spend the rest of his days in Moscow, such as may be my case, as a saving Grace..
Fried to-fu, mushrooms, and vegetables, 35 roubles ($1-something)	Monk's Dinner, a delicious mix of exotic vegetables.	Beer is sold right there too. You can consume your snack on a fairly dirty table right by the hut but given the cost you can't be too demanding.
Yadrena Matrena can be recommended if you want to have a full sit-down meal.	Another "proper" eating establishment with affordable prices. I think two can eat there easily for $20.	Yelki-Palki ("fir trees and sticks") is decorated in Russian country style. These days you will not easily find a wicker fence even in the countryside. Speaking of fences, do check a separte page dedicated the place of barriers in Russian life and psyche.

A seemingly abandoned cathedral that I can't quite place in time towers over the Klementovsky snack alley	Here I tried to capture this row of food kiosks.	This is a pedestrian street save for police cars. I get lots of questions about safety. Relax: streets are well patrolled and on several occasions I found the hard way how attentive and dilligent Moscow patrol men are. The funniest episode was being stopped and questioned when chasing Olesya who ran off with my beer..
Meat pie stand. If lucky, you can get a mashroom pie. Buy them in the beginning of the day, when oil is still fresh. Watch for low awnings!	Fashion for bright clothing seems to be taking foot in Moscow	But most Moscovites and practically all other Russians prefer wearing this tired grumpy look in public.
Kroshka-Kartoshka ("baby potatoe") stand where you can get stuffed baked potatoes is the last one on the right. It is one of the most professionally run kiosk chains.	A classic: babushka selling her "dacha" produce. Usually great quality, and 100% of your money goes to the producer. Highly recommended.	Street dogs seem to feel at home in Moscow streets. Usually they attach themselves to a specific residential building, and tenants establish a system of feeding them.