February 2010


One of the most authentic Soviet era places still around. I remember is well from the 70s and was delighted to re-discover it this winter. A full review of eating and drinking establishments of this sort is coming up.


Another one of my recent food discoveries was a well hidden and probably illegal Vietnamese food market. A particular delight to me was fresh and cheap tofu.


Having returned to Moscow in the winter of 2010 (thanks to Katko and Eugene, who took over my rural tourism/horse riding project) I'm intensely exploring the food situation with the view of opening a small cafe.


Always read the small print! You would think the rate is 30.3 roubles per dollar. But in barely visible letters it says that this rate will apply if you are exchanging over $800. My advice is that you deal with proper banks that don't play these games.


A full box of tofu! Something I haven't seen for the last I guess 16 years! Given that there are lots of enquiries about tofu and that the impossible-to-find Vietnamese market is the only source I'm thinking of starting my cafe project as a tofu dealer. I'll keep a few frozen bricks in my freezer at all times. On request fresh to-fu can be delivered. I'm ready to sell it for 30 roubles for a small brick and 80 roubles for a large one. To put things in perspective: larger stores may carry small bricks for 220-260 roubles. The famous Jaghannat sells large ones for 150 roubles. (One dollar is about 30 roubles.)


The village of Lenino, the nearest train station is Snegiri - the home of a collection of military equipment.


"Indian Spices". Another good place for vegetarian supplies.


Buying "exotic" eastern food from sellers with impenetrable Russian faces is a weird experience. But you are not coming to Russia in a search for sense and normality, are you?


After a brief few years that largely coincide with the reign of Yeltsin faces of the crowd are back to the standard Russian seriousness. Even in an Indian store.


Examples of food presentation. I'm now working on the menu and the concept of a vegetarian cafe. Having considered all I've done, tried to do, wanted to did or failed to do, I've been forced to conclude that the only occupation open to me that can give financial reward is working with food. So the project for the next few years is a cafe. Now it is at the conceptual state but cooking demonstrations are possible. I may also operate in the food delivery mode. See www.unclepasha.com/vegetarian_russia.htm


One of a series of signs that announce prison terms for various offences. This one says, verbatim: "Article 241 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation. Organizing the business of PROSTITUTION is punishable by the deprivation of freedom for the term of up to 10 years. Call girls: do they break other families or their own lives?" I wonder if my Russian brides for sale page can get me into trouble..


More sources of fresh and cheap food..


One of my favourite intoxicating beverages - sweet and somewhat bitter brew from Tatarstan.


Shelters for the homeless. Soup kitchens. Washing facilities. Download the picture, print it out large, and it all should read clearly.


Azurat, one of my favourite sellers of vegetables directly flown from Uzbekistan.

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A monument to Alcoholism on the Swamp Square in Moscow.


One of my client, a nice respectable young man after an exercise in cultural immersion that included a week of drinking and smoking filterless cigarettes.