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Winston's story Part 2
Riding on overnight trains
Unless you're rich enough to be taking planes everywhere, trains are one of the joys of traveling in Russia. They are both cheap and efficient. They are reliable and timely, and unlike Amtrak, they are extremely inexpensive. An overnight trip that goes for 10 hours usually costs about 10 dollars or 300 roubles for the "placard" class wagons which have open door bunks sections. The higher class "kupei" wagons on the other hand, have closed sliding door bunk sections and can cost up to double in price. If you can, get the kupei class wagons, especially for longer rides. There are several advantages to them. They have cleaner living quarters and hallways, more comfortable beds, cleaner bathrooms that are NOT locked up during sanitation stop zones (a huge inconvenience in the placard wagon if you really have to go!), food service carts that are wheeled to you, and close proximity to the restaurant wagon (about one or two wagons away, whereas if you are in placard, you may have to cross up to 9 or 10 wagons to get to it!)
The kupei wagon is usually several hundred roubles more in price. However, it is well worth it. The ticket lady at the train station will usually quote you one price for placard and another for kupei. But sometimes, if you ask, you can get a lower price kupei seat at the same quality as the standard price. I don't know how they do it. But the ticket lady seems to have the power to fudge the prices a little if you ask her to. (But again, don't do it if you're with a Russian lady you're trying to impress :))
Regarding purchasing train tickets at the station, here are some tips. First of all, check with your hotel because sometimes they will have a ticket office for the train. There may have a little fee for booking through there, but it's well worth it because it saves you the hassle of going all the way to the station and back, which can take up to a few hours with the long walks and lines.
Otherwise, if you can't speak Russian or aren't going to the station ticket office with a Russian person, have someone write the name of your destination city on a piece of paper, the train class you want, and the day you want to depart. After showing this information to the lady, she will usually write the price in roubles for you on a piece of paper. When you pay, she will then print out a beige colored ticket with information on it. If this is new to you, you will need to bring this ticket to an English speaking Russian person to explain what each of the numbers on the ticket mean. Once you get familiar with that, you will be able to read it yourself. On the other hand, if you didn't go prepared and have to wing it, here is what I suggest. Try your best to pronounce the name of the city you're going to (If it's Moscow or St. Petersburg, you should have no problem :)) or write it on a piece of paper. Then write the date you want to leave (remember to write the date in their format of day/month/year, and not in ours!) and then say either "placard" or "kupei" class, followed by "skolkah stoit?" (how much is the price?)
If after you do these things, you still have trouble, then don't worry. At the ticket lines, there are likely to be many people in line. The odds are extremely high that someone there speaks English. Just ask for help, and don't be shy about it. Remember that Russians are not hung up on privacy and space from strangers like we are in the West. People will not be defensive if you approach them directly. Walk around and ask who speaks English or say "Vi gavarite pa angliski?" or if you want something simpler to remember "Pa Angliski?" Even if they only speak a little English, they can help you still. It's best though, if you bring along either a map of Russia so you can show your destination, or have a travel guide book such as Lonely Planet with maps inside the pages.
Finally, remember to leave for the train station early, especially if you're in Moscow or St. Petersburg. In those big cities, getting places often takes longer than you expect, and you need a good margin of error in case you run late, because the trains there leave exactly on time. If you're rolling luggage around the metro to the station, it will slow you down considerably. Or if you're in a taxi to the station, you may hit heavy traffic that will slow you down, causing the driver to rush and risk getting into an accident. So leave extra early! Or else you could regret it and get into a frenzied rush.
Arranging accomodations and transportation through marriage or adoption agencies
If you dealt with Russian marriage/dating agencies or adoption agencies before coming to Russia, no doubt you would consider having the agency arrange the trip for you, providing accomodations and transportation. (By the way, adopting a child in Russian is getting to be more common now among Western parents because the wait time and bureacracy is much shorter and simpler, and the biological mother can't take the child back later if she changes her mind, unlike here in the West) Generally, the accomodations and transportation that they arrange are going to be much higher in price than if you arranged it yourself. After all, they get commissions off their referrals or profit from service charges, and of course the higher end hotels are the ones that can afford to give the agency commissions.
Now, if you have a lot of money to spare and prefer the peace of mind of having it all arranged, then by all means let the agency handle it for you. But if you're on a budget like me, then I should let you know that it's not really necessary to have the agency arrange these things for you. It is very easy and often fun, to do the legwork and arrange it yourself. You can try to arrange accomodations over the internet, but keep in mind that usually the higher end hotels are the ones that can afford to advertise on the internet and take reservations. I'd suggest getting a Lonely Planet travel guide of Russia to take with you. They usually have a list of addresses and contact information for hotels from the low end to the high end for you to choose from. But keep in mind that the guide does NOT contain all the hotels that exist in each city, and that the prices in it are often outdated as prices often change in Russia. You can also ask people in the city you arrive in, as to which hotels they recommend at the price range you're looking for. And in regards to train tickets, you can get them yourself using the methods I described in an earlier section above.
Ordering in cafes and restaurants
In cafes and restaurants, it can often be frustating to be dealt with menus in Russian. Most places do not have English menus, so you will encounter this very often. One way to avoid this is to find the cafeteria type cafes which serve food in lines where you pick what you want and put it on your tray. Those work well and since food usually tastes the way it looks (if you have some experience in eating it before) you can tell what to get. Some cities have many of these cafeteria type cafes, while others have very few of them.
Another way is to have a set idea of what you want beforehand, have someone write it down on paper for you, and show it to the waitress. She will tell you if it's available or not. Remember to be as specific in the description as possible, or else you may not get something you like!
Still, if you have to deal with a Russian menu, it's best to be with someone who can explain it to you. If you are with an English speaking Russian, then here's a good way to do it. First, if you have an idea of what you want, then say it and have your companion look for it on the menu. Otherwise, it would be too long and tedious for someone to translate every item on the menu to you. Instead, ask them to name the various category sections on the menu, such as "salads, soups, meat dishes, fish dishes, desserts, etc." Then, pick a category, such as soups for instance, and have them translate each item in that section for you until you find something you want.
Tipping is not the custom in most Russian cafes and restaurants, except for the higher end ones in Moscow and St. Petersburg. As a general rule, if you feel pleased with the service, then tip what you want.
Dealing with police or militia
If you are stopped by the police or militiamen there to check your documents, remember not to be defensive or argumentive with them. That only makes it worse. Instead, act cool and lighthearted. Joke around with them a bit too. Russian men tend to be easily amused and are eager to kid around with you. If you can get on their light side, they are much more likely to let you off without any hassle. They are not required to do everything by the book, and often make judgement calls. And if you give them a good impression, they will often make the call in your favor.
It seems to me though, that if you have an American passport, they will often let you get away with things (such as registration problems) more easily than if you have a European or Asian passport. I don't know why. There might be political reasons behind that.
However, if the officer seems very harsh and grumpy, just act like an innocent tourist. I don't necessarily recommend this, but if he asks you something in a harsh tone, just shrug and say "Ya ni panimayu" (I don't understand). Oftentimes, rather than try to communicate with someone who can't understand them, they will just let you go. But like I said, this may not always be a good strategy depending on the situation. It really depends. You will have to make a judgement call here. If he is asking something you understand and can easily show evidence to satisfy him, then go ahead and do it. But if you don't get what he's saying, just shrug and say "Ya ni panimayu". Most of the time, they'll give up and let you go.
Bringing your own medicine
Bring a supply of the medications or medical supplies that work best for you. This one is especially true if you're going to Russia in the winter or cold season. Since our body's antibodies and white blood cells are mostly adjusted to the cold/flu viruses in our own country, they will often be unaccustomed and defenseless against the cold/flu viruses in the air of foreign countries like Russia. Therefore, you are likely to get sick very easily, especially if you hang around crowded areas or ride in closed train compartments. When this happens, if you don't have your medications with you, you will deeply regret it because the tablets and syrups you get in Russian pharmacies (called Apteka) are nowhere near as effective, and some don't work at all. Therefore, you would suffer horrendously without any effective treatment. And that could easily ruin or impair your trip. At that time, you'll be kicking yourself for not bring that Robitussin or Tylenol Cold that worked for you so well back home. So don't forget this!
Hospitals
Most hospitals in Russia use crude methods of treatment (don't even ask) but are so cheap that you can just stand in line in a waiting room and pay a few dollars to get a visit. However, I have recently found information about medical centers that give Western-style medical care, but they are mostly in the big cities. You can find information about these centers at this site of the American Chamber of Commerce in Russia below:
http://www.amcham.ru/page.php?pageid=129077032227631
It's a good idea to print out the information on that page before going to Russia, in case you need it.
Carrying cash and other valuables
One of the exciting things about Russia is that anything can happen, from the best to the worst. The country and environment is unstable and in a constant flux of change (perhaps this is why unstable people and misfits in American tend to fit like a glove in Russia? lol Just kidding). This also means that you could be mugged or cleverly scammed before you know it. Therefore, don't carry too much cash with you. I would suggest carrying several hundred dollars at a time, using your ATM debit card to withdraw money from the cash machines there (which they call "bankomat") each time you need to replenish your supply. And many will advise you to divide your cash among different pockets of your clothing to help protect yourself.
But remember this very important thing though. Carry a hidden money belt under your shirt wrapped around your torso, or a necklace money belt. I know it feels hokey and nerdy to wear it at first, but I can't stress enough how important it is to have it. Inside the money belt, put your passport and ATM debit card (they are the most important and essential items you need!), along with some spare cash, credit cards (at least some of them), and any other important documents (such as train tickets). This money belt inside your shirt virtually eliminates pick pocketing. I can't tell you how many times I've met other tourists at the hostels I stayed at, who didn't have this money belt, and lost their passport or had it stolen. If you lose your passport, you could end up having a hellish time trying to get a temporary passport and visa from your Embassy to stay here or leave the country! I've heard many terrible accounts of this happening, so be warned. And if you lose your ATM debit card, you would be toast as well since you couldn't withdraw cash anymore except with your credit card. (not recommended)
Also, if you are in Moscow or St. Petersburg, put your wallet in your front pocket, not your back pocket. In crowded areas there, such as the metro, there are pick pocketers lurking and they know how to spot foreigners. In regards to traveller's checks, I wouldn't bother with them because most places don't take them, and to convert them to cash in a bank, the department which handles that is often not open, even when the bank is.
Laundry
Unfortunately, there aren't really any coin-operated public laundromats over there. So the only way to do laundry is to either use the hotel services, wash them yourself by hand, or use someone's laundry machine in their home. Most hotels will have laundry services if you ask, and even if they don't, the concierge or maid on each floor is usually willing to wash them for you (either by hand or with the machines used for washing bedsheets) for a negotiated price. You can also wash them by hand with soap or detergent, but I would avoid this since it's very tedious, difficult, and often doesn't clean your clothes very well. But it's a useful skill to learn because sometimes during traveling, you may have no choice. You can also ask someone you know to let you use their laundry machines, but make sure you know this person well, and if not, then offer them a little money in exchange. However, most people's laundry machines are small and not designed for big loads.
Packing
Americans tend to have a habit for overpacking and preparing for every situation. Russians, however, tend to pack lightly and economically, so they see this American habit as strange. If you're on an extended trip or are going to many cities though, I would recommend dropping this American habit. The problem is that even if you are taking taxis or cars, you will often be dragging your luggage across distances, crowds, walkways, etc. and by then, you will wish you had lighter luggage. And on trains, the corridors are narrow so large luggage may be difficult to drag through and put in the storage bins under the seats. It is best to have either a large backpacker's backpack or one luggage cart with wheels to roll on. Also have a small backpack or handbag available for souvenirs or gifts you accumulate. For long trips, pack about 5 changes of clothes. My suggestion would be to just bring the bare essentials of what you know you will need, but with things you may or may not need, if it's something you can probably get there too, then don't bring it along just to be prepared. Otherwise, you may regret it later when you find that it is a pain in the butt to be dragging around things you don't even end up using and not having room to put your new souvenirs or gifts into.
Visas
Last but not least, you can easily get a one month tourist visa to Russia by applying directly at the Russian Embassy nearest you. However, to save yourself the legwork, you can have an internet travel agency do it for you. It will cost a bit more because of their fees, but not by much. One that I and many other would recommend is Go To Russia.net (www.gotorussia.net). They have a good solid reliable reputation and are most often used by Americans going to Russia. On their site above, there is also a toll free number you can call if you have any questions. Their staff have always been courteous, friendly, and efficient, in my experience.
While the one month tourist visa is easy to obtain, anything longer, such as the longer visas such as the 3 month business visa, 6 month business visa, 1 year business visa, homestay visa, etc. require more paperwork and document hassle. For those, it is best to have an internet travel agency or the inviting institution apply for those for you.
A tricky issue that sometimes comes up is the problem of whether it is possible to extend your visa if you need to. People and organizations will often tell you conflicting things about this issue. Some are sure you can extend your visa without leaving Russia and others are sure you can't. I'm still not clear on the dynamics of this issue, but here's what I've gathered so far. It seems that it depends on the organization that issued your invitation letter. Some organizations, if they have certain roots or connections, have the means to extend your visa by up to two weeks without you having to leave the country. Others don't have this power. (One exception though, is if you become hospitalized or injured to the point where you can't move or board a plane, in that case the government will automatically extend your visa.) So if this might be an issue for you, it's best to speak to the organization who provided you with your invitation letter about it, or the travel agency that you used to apply for the visa.
In any case, if you find yourself needing to extend your visa and can't do it without leaving the country, you can just ride the train or bus to a neighboring country that you do not need a visa to enter into, such as Latvia, Estonia, Lithuania, Finland, etc. From there, you can stay in a hotel or hostel for a while, and use almost any travel agency there to apply for a new visa back to Russia. The travel agencies there will always have English speaking staff, and depending on what you pay, the new visa could take anywhere from a few days to a week to process. Just to let you know though, Estonia and Lithuania are generally cheaper places to reside in while you do this, than Latvia or Finland.
Meeting people
If you're shy or don't know anyone in Russia, don't worry. It's easier to meet people there than you can imagine, except for maybe Moscow. Meeting people in Russia is a whole different dimension than it is in the USA. In America, strangers are strangers and people don't like to meet you unless it's through an organization like work, school, clubs, friends, church, etc. and even then, it's not always easy to get to know them or become a part of their social circles. In a country like Russia on the other hand, people have the attitude that they like to meet new people, especially foreigners, and are very direct about it. Differences arouse curiosity there. Almost no one is a stranger. That's the attitude they have. In fact, when I arrived in a new city in Russia, it would usually only take a few hours to already know some people, get some contact information, and have plans that night. Just doing the normal things will usually create natural, effortless opportunities that get you acquainted with people. When you see how easy it is, you will soon become less shy and more direct yourself. People in Russia are totally UN-cliqueish, which is so refreshing when you're new.
For you guys out there like me, let me share a secret with you. Here is the main difference between meeting girls in Russia vs. America. In most parts of America, when you see attractive girls that you want to meet in a public place, it is a form of silent torture because you can't really do anything about it. If you go up and try to meet them, most of the time they will see that as inappropriate and see you as some kind of creep, resulting in a defensive posture and vibe. This of course, make guys become more shy and erodes their confidence toward attractive women. In Russia, on the other hand, it's not like that at all. More often than not, the attractive girls you see in public that you try to meet will often want to meet you too, even if they look like models. And when they give you their number or agree to get together later, they usually follow through (rather than giving you their number and then screening out your calls like many American girls do). And even if they aren't interested in meeting you, at least they don't make you feel like you are doing anything inappropriate, so you don't feel like you've lost anything or violated anything. And besides, there are enough girls there that want to meet you anyway, to keep you motivated and confident enough to keep trying all the time. Therefore, you don't feel the torture of seeing an attractive woman and not being able to do anything about it. Now guys, which attitude would you prefer from attractive women?
Showering without hot water
One of the inconveniences of Russia is that during the summer, the cities often shut down the hot water lines to fix the pipes so that they'll be operational when winter comes. This can be an inconvenience when you're there and try to take a shower of course. Here are some ways I've dealt with this problem.
First of all, if you're renting an apartment in the area, ask if you can get one with a "kolonka" in it. A "kolonka" is a gas heater tank placed in the shower bathtub that when lit, heats the water going through. It's simple to operate with matches and levers, and you can ask the owner or caretaker to show you how to use it.
Sometimes, part of the city will be without hot water, while another part will continue to have it. If convenient and economical, you can phone another hotel or hostel in the area and ask if their hot water is working. Otherwise, if you're in an apartment without a "kolonka" tank, you will have to resort to the old fashioned way of boiling the hot water. Simply find a clean pot or bucket, boil several kettles of hot water, pouring them into the pot/bucket, and then mixing it with cold water just enough. Then use a cup or saucepan to shower yourself with the warm water.
If, on the other hand, you're stuck in a hotel or hostel and can't boil hot water to shower with, then don't worry. There is still a way to shower without going directly under the cold water directly (ouch!). Get into the shower with the cold water running, but don't go under the running cold water (if you don't mind the shock of it though, then by all means go ahead and go under it. lol). Instead, stand just far enough in front of it to be out of the water stream. Then, cup your hands to scoop some of the cold water, and slowly rub every part of your body with it, to gradually adjust your body to the cold water. When you're done, do the same with the soap, rubbing yourself all over with the foam lather. Finally, rinse off the soap with the cupping water by hand method again. Next, shampoo your hair by just leaning your head into the cold water stream without putting your whole body under it. That's it. It's that simple.
Budget traveling in Moscow
Finally, if you're a budget traveler like me (except when out on dates with girls I want to impress of course :)) here's a site with a lot of useful tips and recommendations.
http://www.cheap-moscow.com/
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